Posts in Inspiration
Blog 20: New Work for Cluster: The Spoils of War

I have been invited to exhibit at Cluster – an international contemporary art jewellery fair in London in March 2024. (Details below.) I was honoured to have been asked to take part and wanted to create some special pieces for this show.

As Cluster is more focussed on unusual and experimental pieces, this show seemed to afford the opportunity of greater freedom of expression whilst being less focussed on commercial considerations. In this blog, therefore, I wanted to tell the story behind these three new pieces:

 

 For a few years, I have been fascinated by Greek mythology and similar contemporary books, which re-interpret these classical tales. Many of these books re-imagine the stories from a female perspective. I was struck by the cruelty in these stories, especially the cruelty towards women that was regarded as acceptable forms of behaviour. Whilst these tales were written in another time, some of the actions and views they describe, however, feel distinctly contemporary.

We live in a world of war, uncertainty and worry. I am sad that many things I believed about the future when I was growing up and took for granted, my children may not be able to take for granted anymore.

The war in Ukraine, Syria and now in Israel/Gaza (and the many other less often heard about wars in the world) are heart-breaking reminders that when it comes to war, not much has changed. Laws of War exist but are ignored, war criminals can hide and far too few are being brought before the International Criminal Court to account for their crimes.

Women are often at the receiving end in conflicts and wars – not only are they responsible for elderly parents and children, needing to provide safety, food and shelter, but they themselves also become targets for violent aggression.

As was the case for women in the ancient Greek tales. The conqueror had the right to do with the women captives as they pleased. Sexual violence and rape were commonly accepted prizes and deserved entitlements of the victor. Women were mere objects. This also extended to the private sphere and relations between men and women, as the story of Clytemnestra shows.

Clytemnestra (sister of Helen of Sparta) is a main figure in Greek mythology and is often depicted as the archetypal evil wife for killing her hero husband, Agamemnon, the ‘King of Men’ of the Greek Army when returning from their victorious war against Troy.

There are different versions of the story – in one, Clytemnestra’s first husband and baby are brutally murdered by Agamemnon who then forces Clytemnestra to become his wife. Years later, Agamemnon then proceeds to sacrifice his own daughter (with Clytemnestra), Iphigenia, to the gods to gain advantageous travel conditions on their voyage to Troy.

Whilst fictional, this and similar tales reflect the attitudes towards women at the time and how they would be treated and how they suffered at the hands of men in power and as victims of war.

Contemporary examples of violence against women are plentiful. Violence against women in war is used to create fear, to hurt and humiliate, to break up families, communities and societies.

Sexual violence and rape as systematic weapons of war are widely documented. They were used, for example, during the Rwandan genocide where 100,000-250,000 women were raped in three months in 1994.[1]

“UN agencies estimate that more than 60,000 women were raped during the civil war in Sierra Leone (1991-2002), more than 40,000 in Liberia (1989-2003), up to 60,000 in the former Yugoslavia (1992-1995), and at least 200,000 in the Democratic Republic of the Congo since 1998.”[2]

A recent Guardian newspaper[3] article described the horrors inflicted upon the female hostages during the 7th October 2023 attack of Hamas on Israel. The brutalities suffered by these women were justified as “the spoils of war”.

A recent report[4] by the UN Secretary General on sexual violence in conflict refers to sexual violence as “[…] rape, sexual slavery, forced prostitution, forced pregnancy, forced abortion, enforced sterilization, forced marriage, and any other forms of sexual violence of comparable gravity perpetrated against women, men, girls or boys that is directly or indirectly linked to a conflict.”[5]

This widening definition includes men, boys and of course girls and shows that civilians and the most vulnerable are strategic pawns in the calculation and tactics of war, whether by armed state or non-state actors.

The horror of war itself – even without sexual violence – is mainly borne by women, children and other civilians. This is tragically now evident in Gaza. Recent figures indicate that the death toll has surpassed 28,400 people, whilst over 69,000 have been injured.[6] An article by Associated Press calculates that three-quarters of the fatalities are women and children. [7]

War impacts mostly on civilians and as the above figures show, these tend to be largely women and children. Even if managing to survive military attacks and bombings, a lack of access to clean water, food, medical care and shelter present life-threatening conditions – coping with injury, loss and trauma of everything endured, however, are the injuries and wounds that continue a lifetime.

The above themes present the background and story of the three new pieces I created. Their titles are as important as the physical pieces as they provide context and meaning. They seek to present the continuing tragedy of the suffering of women during conflict. The names were chosen to reflect that war affects and makes women suffer across time, place and religion, drawing attention to the different layers of pain and suffering.

The titles of the three pieces are as follows:

·         Clytemnestra’s Tears – Trophies of Power. (necklace)

·         Dafna’s Cries – The Spoils of War. (brooch)

·         Fatima’s Memories – The Wounds that Never Heal. (ring)

 

The pieces will also appear on my website in due course. Here are a few more details about each piece:

Clytemnestra’s Tears – Trophies of Power: Necklace, 166 cm long (a very long necklace to be doubled up around the neck), each link: 30x9 mm, recycled Sterling silver, rice pearls, 24ct gold foil (Keum-Boo). 

This black chain-like necklace with its pearl tears symbolises the ongoing pain from the trauma suffered by women, when these tears and pain mean nothing to and are mere trophies of power for the perpetrator.

 

Dafna’s Cries – The Spoils of War: Brooch, 45x35 mm, recycled Sterling silver, rice pearls, 24ct gold foil (Keum-Boo), nylon wire.

The gently curved, black shape represents the weeping, closed eye of a crying woman enduring sexual violence in war.

 

Fatima’s Memories – The Wounds that Never Heal: Ring, 30x32 mm, recycled Sterling silver, 24ct gold foil (Keum-Boo).

The fractured surface, somewhat patched at the back, stands for the emotional scars caused by the trauma women endure during war and which may last a lifetime and which never really heal.

 


Show Details: Cluster Contemporary Jewellery Fair

Date: 21-23 March 2024,
Location: Chelsea Old Town Hall, King’s Rd., London, SW3 5EB;
Nearest Tube: South Kensington, Sloane Square
Opening times: 12 – 8pm
Web: https://www.cluster-london.com/jewellery


[1] Sexual Violence: a Tool of War, UN Special Representative on Sexual Violence in Conflict, Ms Zainab Hawa Bangura, Outreach Programme on the Rwanda Genocide and the United Nations, Department of Public Information, March 2014; p1; https://www.un.org/en/preventgenocide/rwanda/assets/pdf/Backgrounder%20Sexual%20Violence%202014.pdf

[2] Ibid; p1

[3] Evidence points to systematic use of rape and sexual violence by Hamas in 7 October attacks, Bethan McKernan, The Guardian, 18 January 2024

[4] Conflict Related Sexual Violence, Report S/2023/413 of the Secretary General of the UN Security Council, 22 June 2023; https://www.securitycouncilreport.org/atf/cf/%7B65BFCF9B-6D27-4E9C-8CD3-CF6E4FF96FF9%7D/S_2023_413.pdf

[5] Ibid., p2 §5

[6] UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (UNOCHA) state current casualty figures as follows: 28,473 Palestinians killed; 69,146 Palestinians injured; 1.7 million persons displaced in Gaza. https://www.ochaopt.org/

[7] Israeli forces rescue 2 hostages in dramatic Gaza raid that killed at least 67 Palestinians, Associated Press article, by Najib Jobain, Josef Federman and Samy Magdy; https://apnews.com/article/israel-hamas-war-news-02-12-2024-4ade5edf47711c6b0c13d1380980de2b

Blog 14: Cheltenham Craft Festival and Other News

This is a more ‘traditional’ blog, in which I’ll share some of my recent activities and news.

Next week, from 10-12th March 2023, I will be taking part in the Craft Festival at Cheltenham Town Hall. It will be my first time there and I am really looking forward to it. I have been busy making some new pieces and have worked a lot on my display, which I have been wanting to change for some time. Difficult to summarise, but probably best if I share photos of my stand when I am in Cheltenham.

On Thursday, 2nd March at 2pm I will also be chatting to Sarah James, Director of the Craft Festival, live on Instagram. To watch, log onto the Craft Festival page on Instagram at 2pm tomorrow.

In case you are near Cheltenham and would like to visit the next week, here are a few details and links:

 

Dates:

10-12th March 2023

Venue:

Cheltenham Town Hall, Cheltenham, GL50 1QA

Stand: 21

Opening times:

10-5pm Friday & Saturday

10-4pm Sunday

Tickets:

You can purchase tickets in advance by clicking this link. I also still have one free ticket to give away. To find out how to have a chance to win, please see my Instagram post of 28th February – it is super easy to enter.

Activities:

There will be lots on offer this weekend, including workshops, craft demonstrations, talks and activities for the whole family and children in particular. There will be a café on site and of course around 100 fantastic makers and their work. Click here for further details.

Exhibitors:

For a preview of all the 100 exhibitors, click here.

Below are some of the new pieces I shall be taking to the Craft Festival. There are not yet on the website but hopefully soon.

 

Other making news:

Teaching: In January a new teaching term started and the focus of my demonstrations this term is tool making – mainly how to make your own steel stamps or chasing tools and how to prepare a graver for engraving. I love teaching and enjoy the feedback from my students and the opportunity to learn myself.

For more information on the course I teach at Rachel Jeffrey Jewellery School, please click here. Rachel recently appeared as one of the mentors on the BBC1 programme Make it at Market (episodes 8 & 14). To watch please click this link here.

New Ideas: In the last few weeks my daughter and I have been watching many episodes on ancient Egypt and we are both fascinated by it. We went to the British Museum and saw the wonderful Hieroglyphs Exhibition as well as the Egyptian galleries. Needless to say, we bought various books and I am working on ideas for a new collection based on this. Below some of my favourites. The image on the far left stands out. It is a work-in-progress, still showing the lines drawn for the artist who was carving the symbols. An amazing communication across time!

Goldsmiths’ Fair: Influenced by the above, I made a new brooch as part of my application for Goldsmiths’ Fair in the autumn and we shall see if I am lucky this year.

 
 

Commissions: I have also been working on a number of commissions over the last few months and was very pleased with the results. It was lovely working through the ideas with the respective clients, to arrive at pieces which will hopefully give them joy for years to come.

Left to right: The first was an engagement ring in 18ct white and yellow SMO gold with two Canada Mark diamonds and a Fair Trade emerald. The second is a pair of 18ct yellow SMO gold earrings and the third a cuff in textured and recycled silver: Here are some images:

Environmental: My daughter’s school organised a litter pick last Saturday. It was amazing to see that so many families turned up and in just 1 ½ hours we collected 62 plastic bags of rubbish and recycling just from the local area! Though it was sad to see just how much and what people feel free to discard – it was also uplifting to hear all the positive and encouraging comments of passers-by.

For now, there is still plenty to organise for next week’s show. If you do come by, do say hello – I will be at Stand 21.

Take care,

Hendrike

Blog 6: Interrupted Patterns

Next week, I will finally take part in an in-person craft fair again! I really look forward to the meeting the other makers, visitors and having the chance to talk about my work, my ideas and processes.

Being self-employed and working on my own the majority of the time, these moments to share and to get feedback on my work are really precious!

In this blog, I wanted to share the thoughts and ideas behind my new collection, Interrupted Patterns, that I will be launching at the Craft Festival at Bovey Tracey from 17-19th June.

In my earlier posts (January and February) I wrote about my visit to the British Museum, my current fascination with ancient Greek myths and the creation process of a particular brooch (Elpis – Hope), which is now part of the current Meanings and Messages touring show of the Association for Contemporary Jewellery. (Please see the link for touring dates and venues.) I have also written about this amazing exhibition in my May blog where I focus on my favourites of the show.

The Elpis brooch led on to the making of a second one (The Greek Shard II) and the exploration of patterns.

 

Patterns have always fascinated me. In 2005 I travelled to Portugal and was amazed by the tile work on the facades of buildings. I took so many photos without really knowing why. (This was a few years before I returned to making).

I loved how the patterns were constructed; how each individual tile was part of a larger image and I wondered how they were constructed and imagined in the first place.

The images below show how the overall pattern on a wall was often created by the corners of the tiles, rather than the full area of each tile. (Click to enlarge!)

Earlier this year, when visiting family in Jerusalem, I went with my father-in-law to the Museum of Islamic Art. We both agreed it was a treasure trove of amazing artefacts of different places and times. Again, patterns (and of course the examples of exquisite ancient jewellery) struck me. (Click to enlarge!)

Back at home, I leafed through the many books I accumulated over the years, trying to bring it all together. The Grammar of Ornament by Owen Jones being a favourite. I kept returning to a lens-shape that was used in patterns of different cultures. This simple shape would be arranged in a variety of ways to make up complex patterns.

When writing my February blog about Greek ceramics and the creation of my brooch, I started to understand that I was particularly drawn to the broken shards of pottery found in the ground: the pieces on which only parts of patterns could be seen. Those pieces, where the actions of time had done their part in removing some of the original decorations, leaving behind only traces, hints of once beautiful and complex patterns.

It was exactly this, that fascinated me: what happens in the mind when a pattern is interrupted. It seems that the mind seeks to continue it, imagining what it could have been, making connections of its own accord and perhaps making up stories about the use and users of the original object.

These broken shards of a Greek amphora illustrate the point. You can read here the story of the piece, its original use and how they were pieced together again.

Interrupted or disjointed patterns are beautiful in themselves, they may no longer be perfect, but by being disjointed they form new, irregular patterns. As before, the mind may continue them or perhaps seeks to repair them, making them whole again.

For my new pieces I then started to draw random outlines containing patterns, usually with combinations of the lens-shapes and lines. As I continued, I focussed on a particular layout of the lens shape in formations of four around a dot.

I imagined the pieces to be made in two different techniques – one being made with the Keum-Boo process that I have used in the past to create, for example, my stripy pieces; the other being made with 18ct gold. The latter was to be quite different in character to the first, giving a raised, more three-dimensional surface than before.

Having started out with the two brooches on random outlines, I wanted these pieces to have regular backgrounds, so that the viewer would concentrate on the patterns.

The following images show the process of making these pieces (Click to enlarge!)

Here, a few images of one of the final pieces. It is made from recycled sterling silver and 18ct Single Mine Origin (SMO) gold.

Following on from these pieces, I continued doing drawings for the Keum-Boo pieces. I moved away from the regular lens-shape and allowed my drawings to become freer. It reminded me a little of painting, using long brush-strokes to make ink marks on paper.

Some of these drawings are shown below and the ones on the right led to the small lapel pin brooch below, which is currently exhibited at Contemporary Applied Arts, London.

 
 
 
 
Blog 2: The Greek Shard - Elpis Brooch

Another cold, but sunny morning. I have just walked around the frosty field, trying to order my thoughts for the day’s work ahead. It has been a busy few weeks since my last blog and for my second I wanted to follow on from where I left: ‘my Greek journey’. The visit to the museum was accompanied in the weeks since by more reading and listening to audio books on the same theme. The Greek heroes, stories and gods are everywhere in my head. I studied the various photos I took, the books I bought and already had and I thought that in this blog I want to show what all this has resulted in so far.

So, how does a piece come into being? What is my process for translating an inspiration, an idea into a piece? I will try to explain this by following the design and making journey of my new Elpis brooch.

Inspiration

Going in my mind through the rooms of the British Museum once more, recalling the pieces I saw in the cases, the books as well as other archaeological artefacts, I was trying to distil what so captured my imagination. It was most obviously the patterns on the vases, the stories, but it was also something else. It was this magical connection between a ceramic shard – found under layers of soil, showing half a pattern of a once beautiful vase, retelling the story of a mythical Greek hero perhaps – and its finder or viewer. It is this shard – this tangible eye-witness to a past so long ago – that allows the imagination of the viewer to connect with this past, to travel back in time and to immerse oneself in the stories of imagined lives lived long ago.

But even more, I think it is especially this shard, this broken part of something once-whole, this half-pattern, this hint of a story – now lost – painted on the vase that inspires the imagination. What was the vase like as a whole? What figure was painted there? What story was it trying to tell? These are the things I think are magical about the pieces I saw and these were the elements I was trying to use in my work.

Brief

To focus the mind deadlines always help to get things done. A call for submissions for an exhibition entitled Meanings and Messages by the Association for Contemporary Jewellery (ACJ) seemed the perfect opportunity to focus my ideas and design / make a brooch which would hopefully also become the starting point for this year’s collection.

Design Process

With all the above in mind I started by drawing patterns and shapes. This process is usually free and just ‘happens’. What emerged, were rounded, irregular shapes with Greek-inspired golden patterns. The idea of the accidental, the damaged, the half-lost pattern fascinated me.

Thinking about the brief of ‘Meanings and Messages’ I wanted to include something subtle, a message not immediately visible but upon closer inspection revealing a story and endowing meaning to the piece.

One of the Greek characters I was particularly fond of was Eos, ‘rosy-fingered goddess of dawn’. I was drawn to her tragic love story with the mortal Tithonus and liked her depiction as bringing with each sunrise to mankind a sense of hope, renewal and the possibility for a new beginning.

After some deliberation I felt, however, this was somewhat too subtle and chose instead the more well-known spirit of Elpis, the spirit of Hope. She was amongst other spirits in a jar given by Zeus to Pandora. When Pandora opened the jar, all the evil spirits escaped into the world. Elpis alone remained trapped in the jar when - in horror and despair at what she had done – the lid was hastily closed.

Whilst interpretations differ, I like the depiction of Elpis as a young woman, bearing flowers, the hopeful bringer of spring and renewal. Whilst no longer relying on benevolent gods for our fortunes, it is still Hope for a better world and Hope for things to heal and improve that often drives us forward in this world.

These were the thoughts I was hoping to impart in the piece and specifically in the patterns on the front of the piece. Developing the initial ideas led to further drawings and the final design I settled on (images below).

The golden shapes were meant to be like an accidental sample of a continuing pattern in the stylised shape of blossoms with the barely visible lettering of ELPIS underneath, inviting questions as to the meaning of the word and the whole piece.

I wanted the main part of the brooch to be rounded, curved and irregular, reminiscent of a ceramic shard found in an archaeological dig. Thinking about the piece functioning as a brooch, I wanted the structure to be part of the design and opted for holding the ‘shard’ in a setting, similar to the frame in which a ceramic shard may be held or displayed in a museum cabinet. This also allowed me to use the frame as a structure to hold the brooch pin mechanism securely.

Construction

I started by making the silver ‘shard’ with the gold pattern and stamping the letters ELPIS into the silver. Getting the size and shapes of the gold leaf shapes and positioning them correctly was paramount to the design. Once on the silver, the gold pieces could not be changed (other than starting again, of course). The gold was applied in the Keum-Boo technique. See here for more info on the technique.

Making the frame to hold the shard was next, followed by making the pin mechanism and the prongs to hold the shard in place. There are many ways to make a pin mechanism. I wanted a hinged mechanism, made entirely from silver and therefore opted for a slightly heavier pin thickness. The pin was also to have a pin rest at the front of the hinge and was to be restricted in its opening movement to 90°. Once made, the components were soldered onto leaf-shaped plates on the back of the frame.

When making the prongs I needed to consider their position as well as the curvature of the shard. This required the making of small steps within the prongs to securely hold the shard on the frame. When all was finished I set the shard onto the frame and riveted the pin into the hinge mechanism. Below are some images of the finished piece.

I was really happy with the result and felt that I had managed to capture some of the magic the Greek artefacts hold for me. It remains to be seen whether the piece will be chosen for the exhibition. Fingers crossed! In any case, it was a good starting point and I have since made further pieces on the same theme.









My First Blog: Ancient Greece

Over Christmas 2021 I planned a new project for this year: an exciting and hopefully inspiring and sustaining idea for me. I am going to write a monthly blog. One article per month about … anything really. Anything that has relevance to my work as a jeweller and creative person. I often wish for a space to explain more, talk more and I think this might be a good space for it. We will see how it goes. I hope you will find it interesting!

Here now my first article, maybe a little different from the others I am planning, but I wanted to start with something special, something more personal …

Ancient Greece

Friday morning, 21st January 2022. I am on a train to London, excited as a child on her first school trip. I have not been to a museum in a long time and this is therefore really special, a gift to myself. The kids are in school and I have around six hours to get to London and back, walk to the museum and look around.

The weather is cold, frosty and the sun is somewhere behind the clouds but I am just getting in the mood, thinking about the hot sun in ancient Greece. It is taking me back to September 1997 when I went to Greece on a four-week travel scholarship to research contemporary Greek jewellery. This came at the end of my three years at Central St Martins for my jewellery degree. I had really needed a break. The trip took me to Athens, Crete and Ioannina. I visited countless museums, saw endless Greek vases, jewellery and just really enjoyed being away from London.

24 years later, a book gift from my husband and time over Christmas got me reading. I had already started on Greek mythology a year ago when both my husband and daughter read the Greek myths. Reading all these stories, imagining the scenes, landscapes and art I longed to be close to Greek history, Greek artefacts again. I have numerous books on Greek art, patterns and jewellery but seeing them in real life is different.

I finally get to the British Museum. It is still early but in the end I only manage to see two rooms but take in every last detail. School children with their notepads run around, trying to find this or that object on their list. It does not really interest them. I understand. What has changed for me? The time has come, it is the right moment. It makes sense.

Room 12 is about Minoan Crete and Mycenaean Greece in the Bronze Age, apparently the time in which Homer places the events of the Illiad and the Odyssey. Standing in front of the cases holding pieces of jewellery, pottery and carved stones seals I feel humbled and amazed. I have a book, entitled Greek Gold, of an exhibition I had seen at the British Museum in 1994, just as I was studying jewellery design. The close-up images are wonderful to look at to really appreciate the workmanship and detail of the pieces.

However, standing in front of the show-case of pieces found on Crete I am blown away by the scale. Minute, tiny balls of granulation and the most delicate filigree wires adorning the body of a fly or bee. No more than perhaps 20 mm long, the gold is worked with amazing expertise and skill.

(My image does not do justice to the piece.) Imagining the simplicity of tools and equipment available then - 1700-1550 BCE - the pieces attain yet another level of wonder.

Slowly, I work my way around the exhibits until I reach the next room: 13 – Greece 1050-520 BCE. Getting even more excited I cannot wait to see the painted vases with scenes of the Greek myths. But before I do, there are the examples of the Geometric period – the patterns I had come for.

I come to a vessel entitled The Elgin Amphora (760-750 BCE), this piece encapsulates the beauty of ancient artefacts for me. I stand in close proximity to this amphora, I can almost touch it, touch what a person, an artist created almost 2800 years ago. I can see him (I guess it would have been a man) in my mind, I can imagine a person with daily struggles, with a certain taste, how he sits in a workshop painting the vase. I see the perfection he created and yet, how the passage of time has added an extra dimension, a historical, imperfect, human dimension.

But it is not just the passage of time that I can see as damage and decay in the pieces on display, it is their use, their interaction with people from that time. I imagine how the jewellery adorned the women, the occasions they wore them, the person using one of these ceramic vessels for storing grains or oil – and to me this is the essence, the beauty of history: when objects open a window to a past world, to the lives and struggles of people long forgotten but whose lives somehow live on in these objects.

Finally, I turn around and come to the vases with mythological scenes. I smile under my mask and it feels as if I am meeting long-lost friends. I admire the beauty of the composition of the vessels, their proportions, the delicately drawn faces, limbs and clothes on the vases and the scenes come to life. I want to remember it all, but know I will buy another book to carry them home with me to live with me, to nourish and inspire my own work for some months to come.

[Amphora depicting Heracles bringing the Erymanthian boar to Eurystheus during his twelve labours; made in Athens around 550BCE.]